How to choose your first motorcycle after passing

Start with your body, not the spec sheet

Brochures love horsepower figures. Your first fortnight of ownership, though, will be spent at walking pace in car parks, petrol stations and awkward junctions, so what matters most is whether you can comfortably control the machine at low speed. Seat height is the obvious starting point, but seat width matters just as much: a narrow 800mm seat can be easier to get your feet down on than a wide 780mm one. Aim to get both feet flat, or at the very least the balls of both feet, with the bike upright on level ground.

Weight is the next thing to be honest about. Most riders cope happily with a wet weight under about 200kg; beyond 220kg, pushing the bike out of a sloping garage or paddling it backwards on gravel becomes a genuine chore. Sitting on a bike in a showroom tells you very little about how it feels with a full tank and loaded luggage, so ask to wheel it around the forecourt before you commit to anything.

Power delivery matters more than capacity

A 650cc twin with soft, predictable throttle response is often a far kinder first bike than a peaky 600cc four. What you want is smooth fuelling from idle, enough torque to trickle along at 30mph in third without snatching, and a clutch that engages progressively rather than all at once. If you are riding on an A2 licence, remember that restricted bikes vary enormously — some lose their manners entirely when restricted, others barely notice.

• Twins and singles tend to be light, torquey and forgiving in traffic.
• In-line fours reward revs but can feel flat and buzzy at town speeds.
• Throttle response on a damp roundabout will teach you more about a bike than any dyno chart.

Never buy a machine that intimidates you. Fear makes riders brake early, tense up and avoid the very practice that builds skill. A bike you feel relaxed on will make you a better rider faster than one you are slightly afraid of.

Be honest about the riding you will actually do

A weekend blast on empty A-roads, a daily 20-mile commute through town and a two-week tour of the Highlands are three very different jobs. Decide which one dominates your year, then let that choose the bike. Commuters want low weight, upright bars, good mirror coverage and a screen that deflects wind without buffeting. Tourers want fuel range, a supportive seat, pannier mounts and a riding position that does not fold you in half after 90 minutes. If long motorway days are on the cards, wind protection and a tall sixth gear will matter more than an extra 10bhp. If you plan to carry a pillion, check the subframe and suspension adjustability now rather than later. Buying for the trip you might take in three years often means riding something unsuitable for the two years in between.

Budget for everything except the bike

The purchase price is rarely the biggest number. Insurance for a newly qualified rider varies wildly with postcode, bike group and security, so get quotes on two or three specific models before you fall in love with one. Then add tyres (a rear every 6,000 to 8,000 miles on a modest twin), a chain and sprocket set every 15,000 to 20,000 miles, oil and filter services at the maker's interval, road tax, and an MOT once the bike turns three. Kit is part of the bill too — a decent helmet, gloves, armoured jacket and trousers cost more than many new riders expect, and waterproofs are not optional in Britain. A cheap bike with expensive running costs is a false economy; something slightly dearer with long service intervals and plentiful parts often works out cheaper over three years.

Buy where you can get help

Before you settle on a model, find out who will look after it. A brilliant bike with a dealer or independent specialist 150 miles away turns every service into a day out, and a simple fault can take weeks to resolve. Check parts availability and typical waiting times for consumables. If you are buying used, insist on a full service history, check the MOT record for recurring advisories, and look at tyre date stamps and chain adjustment — they tell you how the previous owner treated it. A dealer warranty on a used bike is often worth paying a premium for while you are still learning what a problem feels like.

The twenty-minute check that beats any review

Reviews are useful, but your body gets the final vote. Sit on the bike with both feet down, then paddle it backwards a few metres. Push it up a gentle slope. Put it on and off the side stand a few times. If any of that feels like hard work now, it will feel worse on a wet Tuesday in November. If a test ride is possible, do it somewhere quiet: practise a U-turn, a hill start and a steady 30mph through traffic. Then buy the bike you will happily ride tomorrow morning, not the one you imagine yourself on in five years' time. The best first bike is simply the one that keeps you riding.