An Incredibly Easy Method That Works For All
10 Apr 2021
How to prepare your motorcycle for winter storage properly
If you ride through a UK winter, you already know the sting of road salt on your bike's finish. Cold weather and damp air can still cause havoc even if you park up before the first gritter. Salt accelerates corrosion on every unprotected fastener, fork stanchion and exhaust header. Damp garages let condensation form inside the fuel tank and electrical connectors. A battery left idle will slowly discharge, and flat spots can develop on tyres that sit in one position for months. A few hours of preparation now will save you hundreds of pounds and a lot of frustration when spring arrives.
Start with a thorough wash using a pH-neutral motorcycle cleaner and plenty of cold water. Avoid pressure washers near wheel bearings, seals and electrical connectors. Once clean, dry the bike completely with a microfibre towel or a low-pressure air dryer.
Next, apply a quality wax to painted surfaces and a corrosion inhibitor spray to bare metal, fork stanchions, fasteners and the underside of the mudguards. Keep inhibitor away from brake discs, pads and tyre treads. For the chain, clean it and apply a thick chain wax rather than a thin lube. Lube cables and pivot points, and give electrical connectors a squirt of dielectric grease. Finally, stuff a clean rag into the exhaust end can (remove it before you start the bike) to stop moisture and insects getting in.
Your battery is the most common casualty of winter storage. If you can remove it easily, do so. Store it in a cool, dry place that stays above freezing, but not in a heated room. Check its voltage every four weeks with a multimeter. A healthy battery should read around 12.6 volts when fully charged. If it drops below 12.4 volts, recharge it with a smart charger that automatically switches to maintenance mode.
If you leave the battery on the bike, disconnect the negative terminal to prevent parasitic drain from clocks and alarms. Better still, connect a smart charger maintainer and leave it plugged in all winter. Never use an old-fashioned trickle charger that keeps charging indefinitely – it will boil the battery dry. Clean the terminals, apply a little petroleum jelly, and make sure the charger leads are routed safely away from hot or moving parts.
Modern petrol, especially the E10 blend common in the UK, absorbs moisture from the air and degrades over a few months. That can lead to gummed-up injectors, corroded fuel lines and a rough-running engine in spring. To avoid this, fill your tank to the brim with fresh fuel – this leaves no room for condensation to form. Add a fuel stabiliser according to the bottle's instructions, then run the engine for five to ten minutes so the treated fuel circulates through the entire system.
For carburettor-equipped bikes, you have two options. Either leave the stabilised fuel in the float bowls, or turn off the fuel tap and run the engine until it dies, which empties the bowls. The latter is better for very long storage, but either method works for a typical UK winter. Do not drain the tank completely – bare metal inside will rust surprisingly quickly.
Flat spots form when a tyre sits under load in one position for weeks. Inflate your tyres to the recommended pressure, or add an extra 5 psi to help them hold their shape. If you have paddock stands, lift both wheels off the ground. If not, place a thick rubber mat or a piece of old carpet under each tyre, and roll the bike a few inches every fortnight to change the contact patch. Never deflate your tyres for storage.
While you are down there, check for embedded stones, cuts or bulges. Also, give the fork seals a wipe with a little silicone spray to keep them supple. If your bike has a centre stand, use it – it takes weight off the rear suspension and tyre. Otherwise, a side stand is fine. Cover the bike with a breathable cotton sheet or a specialist indoor cover. Avoid plastic tarpaulins, which trap condensation and can actually make corrosion worse.
Store your motorcycle in a dry, well-ventilated garage or shed, ideally away from windows where condensation forms. Concrete floors wick moisture, so park on a rubber mat or a wooden pallet. If you must store outside, use a high-quality breathable outdoor cover and secure it against wind. Before you walk away, change the engine oil and filter – used oil contains acids that can eat into bearings over winter. Check the coolant antifreeze strength if your bike is liquid-cooled.
Write a note and tape it to the tank: the date you stored it, the fuel stabiliser used, and any reminders like "remove exhaust rag" or "reconnect battery". Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you have not already. Finally, resist the urge to start the engine every few weeks unless you can run it long enough to fully warm up and burn off condensation. Short bursts do more harm than good. A little patience now means you will be riding again the moment the salt washes away.
T Andg Motor Written for people who value the details, and want honest guidance they can trust.
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.
Want to be notified when we launch a new template or an udpate. Just sign up and we'll send you a notification by email.
Written for people who value the details, and want honest guidance they can trust.
Soldman Kell
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.