Planning a coastal motorcycle route in Northumberland

Why Northumberland rewards a slower pace

Northumberland's coast is not a road to be dispatched. The A1 runs close to the sea for much of the way, but the real riding is on the lanes that thread between it and the shore — the B1340 through Beadnell and Seahouses, the B1339 past Craster, and the smaller unclassified roads that link villages like Low Newton and Newton-by-the-Sea. These are roads where a 40 mph average is a good day and 60 mph is a fantasy. Accept that before you set off and the trip becomes far more enjoyable.

The reward is a coastline that packs castles, wide sandy bays, working harbours and empty moorland edges into roughly 40 miles as the crow flies. Bamburgh Castle sitting above the dunes, Dunstanburgh's ruins on the cliff at Craster, Warkworth's keep above the Coquet — you could spend a fortnight here and still find new corners. Treat the ride as a series of short hops between places worth stopping, rather than a route to be completed.

Shaping a sensible day's route

A realistic full day on the coast runs between 90 and 130 miles once you add detours and the odd wrong turn. Plan it as a rough line rather than a fixed itinerary, and build in slack — coastal traffic in summer can halve your expected pace.

• Northern loop: Berwick-upon-Tweed south via the B1340 through Scremerston, Cocklawburn and Spittal, then inland briefly to rejoin the coast at Bamburgh. Around 45 miles with plenty of stops.
• Central stretch: Bamburgh to Alnmouth via Seahouses, Beadnell, Craster and Howick. Short in miles, long in time — this is the scenic heart of the coast.
• Southern extension: Alnmouth down through Warkworth, Amble and Druridge Bay towards Cresswell. Flatter, faster roads and good for a late afternoon run.

If you only have one day, pick the central stretch and a half of the northern loop. If you have two, ride north to south and stay overnight around Alnwick or Alnmouth, which puts you in reach of both the coast and the Cheviot fringe for a second day.

Fuel, food and the practical bits

Fuel is the single biggest planning consideration. Petrol stations on the coast itself are thin on the ground — Alnwick, Berwick, Amble and Wooler are your reliable options, with a smaller forecourt at Seahouses that can be unpredictable out of season. Fill up whenever you pass a station with the needle below half, especially if you are heading towards the more remote northern stretches or inland towards the Cheviots.

Food is easier, but timing matters. Village cafés and pubs in places like Craster, Alnmouth and Low Newton fill quickly on sunny weekends, and many shut early outside the main season. A flask and a sandwich in the top box has rescued more coastal rides than any amount of route planning. Carry water, and don't rely on card machines working in smaller places — a little cash still helps.

Before you leave, check chain tension and lubrication, tyre pressures and tread, brake fluid and lights. Coastal air is salty and damp, so a quick rinse and a re-lube at the end of the day pays dividends. If you are riding an older bike, check the charging system — short hops with the lights on and heated grips running can quietly drain a tired battery.

Riding the coastal lanes safely

The lanes here demand respect. Many are single track with passing places, high hedges and blind bends. Oncoming tractors, caravans, cyclists and walkers are all part of the deal.

• Assume there is something around every blind corner, especially in the harvest months.
• Look for gravel and mud on bends near field entrances — it washes across the road after rain.
• Give horses and cyclists plenty of room and slow right down; there is no rush and no benefit in passing close.
• Watch for low sun in the late afternoon. The coast runs roughly north–south and glare off the sea is genuinely blinding.
• Take cattle grids steadily, and be ready for sheep on the road near moorland edges.

Wind is another factor. Exposed stretches around Beadnell Bay and Druridge Bay catch a crosswind that will move you across your lane, particularly with a tall screen or soft luggage. Grip the tank with your knees and stay relaxed on the bars.

Tides, weather and timing

If Holy Island is on your list, the causeway is only crossable at low water and the safe windows change daily. Check the crossing times before you commit, and never be tempted to chance it — the tide comes in faster than it looks and the water is cold. The same caution applies to any beach parking; sand and saltwater are unkind to bikes.

Northumberland's weather shifts quickly. Sea fret can roll in on an otherwise bright morning and sit there for hours, and rain arrives off the Cheviots with little warning. Waterproofs, a spare visor or pinlock insert, and warm layers are not optional. Late spring and early autumn often give the best combination of quiet roads and decent light, while midsummer brings long evenings but also the crowds.

Turning a ride into a tour

The coast works best as a two or three day trip. Base yourself somewhere central and ride loops out from it rather than hauling luggage the whole way — a single well-packed tail bag is easier to live with than panniers on narrow lanes. Book accommodation early if you are travelling at weekends or during school holidays, and ask about secure parking; many pubs and guest houses will find you a spot if you ring ahead.

Finish the day early enough to enjoy it. The best part of touring this coast is not the mileage — it is sitting outside a harbour pub with a pint, watching the light change over the Farne Islands while the bike cools down beside you. Plan for that, and the roads will look after themselves.