A guide to motorcycle insurance for new riders

Why your first quote can come as a shock

When you have just passed your CBT or your full test, insurance is often the biggest surprise of the whole process. A bike that costs £2,000 can attract a premium of £1,200 or more in your first year, and it is easy to feel like the industry has something against you. It has not — it is simply pricing risk, and statistically new riders have more claims than anyone else. Understanding how insurers arrive at that number is the quickest route to paying less for it.

The good news is that premiums usually fall sharply after a year or two of claim-free riding. Treat your first policy as a stepping stone, not a life sentence.

The three levels of cover

Almost every policy sits in one of three bands, and the differences matter more than the names suggest.

• Third party only. The legal minimum. It pays for damage or injury you cause to other people and their property, and nothing else. If your bike is stolen or you slide off on a wet roundabout, you pay for everything yourself.
• Third party, fire and theft. Adds cover if your bike is stolen or damaged by fire. It still will not pay for damage you cause to your own machine in a crash, which is the most common type of claim for a new rider.
• Comprehensive. Covers your bike as well, whether the fault is yours or not. It often includes personal accident cover, pillion cover and a courtesy bike, though you should check exactly what is included rather than assuming.

It is tempting to choose third party only to save money, but the gap between it and comprehensive has narrowed a lot in recent years. Get quotes for all three levels before deciding — sometimes comprehensive is barely more expensive, and occasionally it is cheaper.

What actually drives your premium

Insurers look at a handful of factors, and each one is something you can influence to a degree.

• The bike itself. Engine size, insurance group and how attractive it is to thieves all count. A 125 commuter in a low group will cost far less to insure than a 600cc sports bike, even if the purchase prices are similar.
• Where you keep it. A locked garage at a quiet address beats a communal car park on a busy street every time. Be honest about this — a refused claim is far worse than a slightly higher premium.
• Security. A Thatcham-approved chain and lock, a ground anchor, an alarm, an immobiliser or a tracking device can all reduce your quote. Tell the insurer exactly what you use, and use it every time.
• Your experience and history. How long you have held your licence, your annual mileage, whether you have held a car licence for years, and any no-claims bonus you have built up elsewhere. Ask whether car no-claims can be mirrored onto a bike policy — some insurers allow it.
• Your details. Your job title, postcode and whether you have added an experienced named rider can all shift the price. Adding a sensible older rider occasionally brings a premium down.

Excesses: read this bit carefully

The excess is what you pay towards a claim before the insurer steps in. Most policies have two: a compulsory excess set by the insurer, and a voluntary excess you choose to add in exchange for a lower premium.

Raising your voluntary excess from £100 to £500 might save you £80 a year, but it means finding £500 before you see a penny if you drop the bike. For a new rider on a modest machine, a large voluntary excess is often a false economy. Also check whether theft and fire claims carry a different, usually higher, excess than accident claims.

Optional extras worth thinking about

Extras are where policies quietly diverge. Consider these before you buy rather than after you need them.

• Helmet and leathers cover. Often a small add-on and a genuine help if your kit is damaged in a claim.
• Breakdown cover. Especially valuable on an older bike or if you tour far from home.
• Legal expenses. Usually inexpensive and useful if a claim becomes disputed.
• Pillion cover. Not always included as standard. If you plan to carry a passenger, confirm it is there.
• Protected no-claims. Worth it once you have several years built up, less so in your first year when there is little to protect.

Skip anything you genuinely will not use. Extras you never claim on are just premium by another name.

Practical ways to bring the cost down

• Pay annually if you can. Monthly instalments are a credit agreement and typically cost 10–30% more overall.
• Be accurate. Wrong mileage, a wrong overnight location or an undeclared modification can void a policy when you need it most.
• Compare like for like. Check the excess, the extras and the agreed or market value before choosing on price alone.
• Consider a less glamorous first bike. A used, low-group machine you can afford to repair yourself often works out cheaper than insuring something flash.
• Keep your security kit with you on every trip. Insurers increasingly ask for proof of use if a bike goes missing.

Buy the cover that matches how you actually ride, not the cheapest headline figure. Get a few quotes, read the excesses, and ask questions before you sign. A year of careful riding will do more for your premium than any single trick, and it will make you a better rider at the same time.